Bicycles and everything for them: how to buy well through offers
You buy a bicycle for yourself, not for its looks
The same bicycle can be comfortable for one person and a misery for another. Frame size, riding position, type of brakes, number of gears and even weight depend on your height and on where you will ride: on tarmac to work, on forest trails or in the hills. So before comparing prices it is worth knowing the task clearly.
The subcategories and what to specify in each
- Bicycles — mountain, road, city, gravel, children's. You need your height, frame size, wheel diameter, frame material and brake type.
- E-bikes — look at motor power, battery capacity, range and motor position.
- Cycling protection — helmets, gloves, knee pads. The main things are head circumference or size and the kind of use.
- Bicycle accessories — racks, lights, locks, bottles, mounts.
- Bicycle parts — cassettes, chains, brake pads, tyres, forks. Compatibility is critical here.
To avoid going round shops and scrolling through listings, you create a request and write what you need, and bike shops and private owners send offers to the chat with price, terms and delivery. The request is checked before it is shown, and you are told what is missing. Sellers can see where their offer stands, so they compete for your choice. Your contacts stay hidden. More in the “How it works” section.
What to put in your request
- What for — city riding, forest trails, road, touring, a child.
- Height and frame size — in inches or as S, M, L.
- Wheels — 26, 27.5, 29 inches, tyre width.
- Brakes and drivetrain — rim or disc, mechanical or hydraulic, number of speeds.
- Condition — new or second-hand and how much mileage is acceptable.
- For parts — the bicycle model, the fitting standard, the number of speeds.
- City and delivery, and a budget if you want to state it.
How to compare offers and what affects the price
Two similar offers for a bicycle can differ in equipment: one has decent hydraulic brakes, the other simple mechanical ones. So compare by the list of components, not by the brand. For a used one, ask about cracks in the frame, wear of the chain and cassette, play in the bottom bracket, and the condition of the fork and wheels. Also see whether sellers offer setup, assembly out of the box and a warranty: that is part of the comparison too.
What the price depends on:
- Frame and components: aluminium is usually cheaper than carbon, and the groupset (drivetrain, brakes) changes the cost noticeably.
- Suspension: hardtails are simpler and cheaper than full-suspension bikes, but comfort on rough roads is lower.
- Electrics: the motor and battery make up the bulk of an e-bike's price.
- Season: demand rises before summer, and after the rainy season or in winter you may find better terms.
- New or second-hand: used is often cheaper, but needs checking and sometimes servicing.
If you are looking for a used bicycle, agree on an inspection and a test ride. Before paying, ask about its history: whether it has fallen, whether key parts were replaced, whether there is a bill or papers. For parts, find the exact name of the part or a photo of the old one in advance: it saves time on clarifications.
Common mistakes
Buying a size by eye, though different makers label sizes differently. Not allowing for the fact that parts of different standards are incompatible, for example axles, bottom brackets or brake mounts. Forgetting the extra cost of a helmet, a lock and lights. Buying an e-bike without checking the battery: it is the dearest part, and it shows the real age of the machine.
Look for gear for leisure and trekking in the “Hobbies, leisure and sport” section.
