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Car speakers and subwoofers: how to choose and not overpay

Where to start: size and place

You cannot buy “any” speaker: it has to fit the factory spot. Doors most often take 16 cm (6.5 inch) or 13 cm speakers, and there are also oval 6×9 ones on the rear shelf. For many cars the exact size is known, for example which size fits the door of a Suzuki Swift or a Hyundai i20. Write your car model and the place where you want to fit the speakers in your request, and sellers will filter out what does not fit.

Coaxial or component

Coaxial speakers have the woofer and tweeter in one housing: they are easy to fit and the cheapest. Component sets consist of separate woofers or mid-range drivers, tweeters and crossovers. The sound is sharper, but fitting is harder. A coaxial set is enough for a basic upgrade. If you want a soundstage and detail, people fit components together with an amplifier.

Subwoofer: active, passive, enclosure

An active subwoofer has a built-in amplifier and is simpler to connect. A passive one needs a separate amplifier. For the enclosure, choose between a sealed box (tighter bass), a ported box (louder), a compact under-seat unit or a stealth version for a boot recess. There are also bare drivers without an enclosure.

What to put in your request

  • What you need — coaxial, component, active or passive subwoofer, a full kit;
  • Size — 16 cm, 6×9, or inches for a subwoofer;
  • Power — preferably RMS, for example 100 W RMS, not the peak figure;
  • Car model and place — door, shelf and so on;
  • Enclosure — sealed, ported, under-seat;
  • Model or brand, for example Pioneer TS-A1680F;
  • Condition — new or used;
  • Fitting;
  • Delivery city and budget.

Example: “I need new 16 cm coaxial speakers for the front doors of a Hyundai i20, 100 W RMS, and an active under-seat subwoofer. With fitting, or courier delivery to Al Ain, budget up to AED 440.”

Compare by RMS, not by promises

Big numbers on the box often mean peak power, which says nothing in everyday use. Look at RMS, sensitivity, frequency range and impedance. Check whether the grille, mounting brackets and spacers are included. For used speakers, ask about the condition of the surround (the rubber ring can crumble) and whether you can listen to them first.

Also count the fitting: sound-deadening the doors sometimes does more than pricier speakers.

How BlaBlaPrice helps

You describe the job in one request on BlaBlaPrice, and car audio shops and private sellers answer in the chat with a price and terms. The platform shows the best-value offer first, and reviews of the sellers are visible. Sellers can see where they stand and compete with each other, so they often improve the price or add fitting. Your phone number stays hidden until you choose a seller. More in How it works.

For a full system, look at amplifiers and cables.

Questions and answers

Which is better: coaxial or component speakers?

Coaxial ones are simpler and cheaper. Component ones sound more detailed but are harder to fit. For a first upgrade, coaxial is usually enough.

Do I need an amplifier for the speakers?

For basic speakers the car stereo may be enough. Powerful and component speakers do better with a separate amplifier, and a passive subwoofer does not work without one.

What should I look at: RMS or peak power?

Go by RMS, which is the real continuous power. Peak power is a marketing number.

Can I buy used speakers safely?

Yes, if the seller shows photos and lets you check the sound. Ask about the condition of the cone surround and why they are selling.

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