Used parts from car breakers: how to buy well
Why a breaker is often a better deal than a new part
An original part from the maker costs a lot, and an alternative sometimes does not fit properly. A breaker offers a third way: an original from a real car, often in good condition and for a clearly smaller sum. This applies especially to body parts, lights, interior parts, electronics and units that ordinary shops simply do not have.
The problem is different: there are many breakers, but only a few have the part you need. Calling each one takes long, and the answers differ. So it is more logical to describe your need once on BlaBlaPrice and wait until breakers write to you with what they have.
How to pick the right make
Breakers usually specialise in a few makes, so it is better to search by make. If you drive a German car, look at the BMW or Audi sections. For Korean and Japanese cars there are Hyundai, Kia and Mazda. But if you are not sure where to put your car, just write a request, and the site will find the category itself.
What to put in your request
For a used part, accuracy matters more than for a new one: one letter in a code can mean a different trim.
- VIN — the most reliable way to pick a part; without it, give at least the year.
- Make, model, generation — for example Skoda Octavia A7, not just “Octavia”.
- Engine and gearbox — size, fuel type, manual or automatic, drive.
- Part name and number — if you know the catalogue number, write it.
- Side and position — left or right, front or rear.
- Colour and trim — important for body parts and the interior.
- Condition — whether scratches are acceptable, or you need a part with no repair.
- City and delivery — pickup or courier delivery, and a budget if you want to state it.
How to compare offers
Sellers reply in the chat: what they have, the price, a photo of the part, the terms. BlaBlaPrice shows the best-fitting offer first, and each offer has reviews of the seller. But check a few things yourself too:
- whether there is a photo of the very part you will be sold, not a catalogue one;
- whether the part number matches your VIN;
- whether the breaker gives a return warranty if the part does not fit;
- which car the part was taken from and the donor's mileage;
- how much delivery costs and whether you can inspect the part before paying.
Each seller sees where their offer stands, so they compete for your request. Contacts are hidden, and only the one you choose gets them.
What is worth taking from a breaker and what is not
It is best to buy from a breaker what is costly new and wears little: doors, bonnets, bumpers, headlights, mirrors, interior parts, seats, alternators, starters, control units. Take units (engine, gearbox) only with a known mileage, a checked condition and a written warranty. But brake pads, belts, filters and other consumables are not bought from a breaker: better to take them new.
Common mistakes
Most often people take a part “from the same model” without checking the year and engine: the connector or the bracket turns out to be different. Another mistake is to buy electronics (control units, ECUs) without checking whether they must be programmed for the particular car. And do not save on brake and steering parts: take a used one here only after a careful inspection.
When you need a new part, look at car parts, and for trucks and machinery there is a separate section of parts for commercial vehicles. More about the process itself is on the “How it works” page.
