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Transmission and gearboxes: how to buy a gearbox or clutch well

First find out what exactly has failed

Slipping under load and high revs without acceleration point to the clutch. Crunching when you shift gears points to the synchronisers or the disc. Clicking when you turn points to the CV joint. Jerks and shocks in an automatic need diagnosis, not blind buying: sometimes the fault is not the gearbox itself but the oil, a sensor or the mechatronic unit. To avoid overpaying, get a fault report from a mechanic.

The gearbox type decides everything

A manual is the simplest and the cheapest to repair. A classic automatic is more complex and costlier to repair. CVT and robotised gearboxes (DSG, robot) are demanding about the condition of the oil and the mechatronic unit. Often it is not the whole gearbox that is changed but a part: a clutch kit, a flywheel, a mechatronic unit or a driveshaft.

What to put in your request

  • What you need — a complete gearbox or a single part: clutch kit, flywheel, mechatronic unit, CV joint, driveshaft.
  • Model and year — for example, Volkswagen Vento, 2016.
  • Engine — 1.2 TSI; the gearbox code depends on it.
  • Gearbox type — manual, automatic, CVT, DSG and the code, such as DSG-7 DQ200.
  • Drive — front, rear or all-wheel.
  • Condition — new, used from a dismantled car or reconditioned.
  • Original or aftermarket — for example, LuK or Sachs for the clutch.
  • Warranty — for example, 14 days for checking.
  • Budget and delivery method.

Example: “I need a clutch kit with flywheel for a Volkswagen Vento, 2016, 1.2 TSI, robotised DSG-7 DQ200 gearbox. LuK or Sachs, new. Courier delivery to Bengaluru. Budget up to ₹60,000.”

How to compare offers

Write in your request exactly what you need, and sellers will reply in the chat: what is in stock, condition, price, warranty and delivery terms. The platform shows first the offer that is best on content, with reviews of the seller beside each. Sellers see their place among others and compete for your request. Contacts are hidden. How it is arranged is on the “How it works” page.

For a used gearbox, ask about mileage, source, photos and a video of it working on a bench or the donor car. Check that the gearbox code matches the one you need: one model can have several. Find out how many days you get to test it on your car and who pays for return delivery if the gearbox does not fit. For a clutch, compare the kit: disc, pressure plate, release bearing; and on cars with a dual-mass flywheel, ask whether the flywheel is included.

Common mistakes

Buying a gearbox without the code. Fitting a new clutch on a worn flywheel. Not replacing the oil and seals during the job. Forgetting to move the attached parts and the software update for the mechatronic unit. See related parts in engine and suspension and running gear.

Questions and answers

How do I find out the gearbox code?

It is given on the gearbox housing and in the car’s papers, and a seller can also work it out from the VIN. Send the details to sellers in your request.

Used or reconditioned gearbox: which is better?

A used one is cheaper, but its condition depends on the donor car. Take a reconditioned one when it is clear what was replaced and there is a warranty.

Should the flywheel be replaced along with the clutch?

Sometimes yes, especially with dual-mass flywheels, which have their own life. The mechanic decides after inspection.

Should I buy an automatic without testing it?

No, ask for proof of mileage, a video of it working and a warranty for checking. That lowers the risk.

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